If you’re only in it for the birds, do scroll to the end because that’s where they are. Backwoodsman headed to the Netherlands to stay on the SS Rotterdam and shoot some pictures, in camera-for-hire mode in support of Faye’s Ocean Modern project, and to admire the city and have some nice dinners.
It has been some years since this great ocean-liner greeted the waves bound for the sea, its home, to paraphrase Louis Dudek, but it is still an imposing sight, and to Backwoodsman, a nostalgic one. In the nineteen-sixties, Backwoodsman was often taken by his Granny Dagnall to see the Pier Head in Liverpool. Childhood memories sometimes privilege impact at the expense of accuracy, but in recollection, it seems that it was possible to turn right by the landing stage for the Mersey ferries, and walk along the quayside beside the towering steel plate of big ships secured by the bewildering catenaries of mooring lines, ropes that seemed thicker than tree trunks to a small boy. Seeing the SS Rotterdam from the quay on the Maashaven brought back many happy memories.
Built environment is not generally Backwoodsman’s best thing but Rotterdam seemed to have some very interesting buildings. He was particularly struck by the interconnected towers that are De Rotterdam (seen here behind the Swan bridge), and Depot Boijmans Van Beuningen, shown here with the reflected high rise of the city.
There were many examples of built environment of a much softer kind; Wisteria clearly enjoys the harbourside climate, they were everywhere and in full and glorious bloom.
The weather was hostile but it opened up for a trip to the Maritime Museum which sits at the junction of Leuvehaven and Wijnhaven.
The most impressive of the many vessels moored outside the museum was the grain elevator Stadsgraanzuiger No 19, a class of vessel used to decant grain from the holds of very large vessels onto much smaller barges of shallower draft. The introduction of the grain elevators laid waste to the jobs of thousands of dockers in northern European ports.
Backwoodsman had spotted a Great-crested Grebe on the water, and was very pleased to see it. A few shots were fired, more for form’s sake than in the hope of a decent image. He wasn’t prepared for what happened next as a relaxed-looking Grebe or Fuut, as it is in Dutch, came really close.
Really, what are the chances? These nervous birds usually sail away from this photographer until they are just out of range of a decent shot. Backwoodsman carried out a quick lens change (to the longest one available, a mere 100 mm telephoto) and knelt in the very limited cover available. The Fuut went about its business, and was then joined by its partner!
The rain started and the Grebes began to display. Backwoodsman has posted on this species before but these images are much better than what he had available at the time, so please enjoy them, if you will.
What a treat! It was also pleasing to capture some video footage, complete with passing euro-siren. Backwoodsman regrets shooting this in profile.
The rain grew heavier and it was time to leave the Grebes to their amour. A white knuckle ride on a water taxi into the teeth of the gale took us home to the SS Rotterdam.
And the dinners? The standout was HMB restaurant (for Hummingbird, birds again); McAfee really doesn’t like their website so I’m not putting in a link. Deft, delicate and delicious plates, but should you go, don’t be put off by front of house. Backwoodsman hasn’t been looked-up-and-down by a fat bloke in double denim since the nineteen eighties.
The final image is a draft poster of the displaying Grebes. It was made in Powerpoint so the quality of the jpg file is low; Backwoodsman is working on something he could print up for the wall.